
Cuff-to-Cuff Baby Sweater
Two 2-hour sessions · $40
(project materials not included)
Experience level: Advanced Beginner
Class description: Learn the cable cast-on, tubular rib, slip stitches, shaping and more.
Supplies & Homework:
Choose a variety of yarns that are compatible or can be knitted to be compatible. Use as many yarns as you wish. This can be a stash buster project! Each sweater will be unique.
4 or more different compatible yarns
2 pairs of circular needles, size appropriate for yarn used (one will be used for ribbing, the other for the body of the sweater) Ribbing needle is usually 2 or more sizes smaller than needle used for the body of the sweater.
Yardage is approximate it will change with the weight of yarn used, your size (width) and length you choose. Use these figures as a guideline; totals are based on a long sleeve cardigan. 20-inch chest approx. 250 yards to a 29-inch chest at 650 yards.
This is a beginner friendly sweater (mistakes can be hidden easily). You only need to know how to knit and purl. I will teach you the rest. (Increases, decreases, cable cast on, tubular rib, slip stitches)
Note: If you are really feeling creative, you can combine yarns, as long as you are still getting the same stitch gauge. For example, you can combine 2 sport weight yarns together to make up a worsted weight, or you can add a carry along yarn, such as Charm, Flora, Eyelash to one of your plain colored yarns, this is what makes it interesting. (For example, mohair, ribbon, wool, cotton, boucle etc. etc. etc.) This is a class for the baby/child designer cuff to cuff and your sweater will be washed according to the most delicate fiber you have in it.
Make a gauge swatch up using the pattern below to get your average stitches and rows per inch. Don't be afraid to play around with your needle size and putting your colors together. If you don't know how to slip a stitch please ask us. Skills needed to do the swatch are cast on, knit, purl, and slip.
Cast on 26 stitches. Keep repeating the 15 rows until you have at least 5 inches, changing the yarns after you have at least an inch done in a particular yarn. Keep track of total rows done. It will make row gauge counting easier.
Row 1:K
Row 2: K
Row 3: Sl, K1
Row 4: P1, K1
Row 5: K
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: K1, Sl1
Row 8: P1, K1
Row 9: K
Row 10: P
Row 11: K, Sl1
Row 12: P1, K1
Row 13: K
Row 14: P1, K1
Row 15: K